by Kendrick Hamilton
the leaders which was unfortunately a pretty small group. One of the members of our group had to drop out prior to starting due to a biking injury so we were down to four. Good things come in small packages and we took advantage of our small group. Accommodation was at the ACC clubhouse in Canmore.
The first day had a brief stop at Gear Up to get climbing shoes then off to Wasootch Slabs. For Darrell it was a chance to practice belaying a leader (his first time doing this) while Allan set up anchors for top ropes. Darrell also got introduced to cleaning anchors. Solange got reintroduced to belaying with an ATC. She had used a Grigri prior to the trip and many years earlier a figure eight descender. Later that day Darrell learned to clip into carabiners for lead climbing. He did a simulated lead with Solange belaying the lead rope. Unfortunately for Solange the lead rope Darrell was using for a simulated lead was a thick old rope that is now only used for setting top rope anchors. Darrell was pulling it up to build another top rope. This thick old rope made it harder for Solange to pull in and feed out. (Note: in a simulated lead climb, the climber climbs up a lead route setting quick draws and clipping the rope in, but the climber has a top rope that they are being belayed on. If the climber falls, the top rope catches the fall). Soon enough Darrell did his first real lead. If that was not enough for Darrell and Solange, they both learned to do a switch over into a rappel and rappel off the wall. I got a few leads in as well. We also took a few moderate breaks between climbs as to not wear ourselves out the first day, a pattern that would continue the next day.
The second day we drove off to Lake Louise. Ordinarily, with the larger groups, the spring Thrashers Weekend avoids Lake Louise. With only four of us we did not need to go to a place with a large number of adjacent routes or worry about monopolizing the entire climbing area. We went to the outhouse area, chatted for a few minutes with some other climbers doing the route we wanted to start on. I lead up "Men with Brooms" a 5.6 with a star (really good route) and set a top rope anchor. I also lead up "School of Rock" (5.7) and "Neverland" (5.8). I only missed one clip (the bolt was the last prior to the anchors and I spotted it as I was rapelling). Darrell got extra practice belaying a leader by belaying me on some of these climbs. He also lead "My Little Pony" and got more practice cleaning routes. After this we hiked up to "Blob Rock". Here I lead
up "Castle Anthrax" a two star 5.8+ route. I used a couple of takes to rest and look for my route. The gym routes are somewhat shorter and a lot better marked than outside. I guess I should do more laps in the gym just to get in better shape for the real world. Darrell climbed it on top roped followed by Solange. She had only a little concern about whether she would be able to do it. Off she went up this 5.8+ having only once having done one in the gym. Though she had a couple of takes she made it to the top. It was left to Allan to climb and clean the anchor.
Instead of taking the #1 highway back to Canmore, Allan took us back on the 1A, a slightly slower route but more scenic. He regaled us with a tale of ACC Sask Section members spending a night at the top of Grillmair Chimney with what he thought were ants crawling on him. We also stopped at Castle mountain lookout for a few pictures. Allan, being a graphic artist, was disappointed he did not have his camera (the bag he forgot to bring) but was able to give hints for taking better pictures.
The third day we decided to do a scramble with Allan leading us up Yamnuska. The hike started briskly through forest but was quickly slowed down as many opportunities to get wonderful flora photos presented themselves. As we hiked up the mountain we ran into a group of four guys
also doing the same scramble. We took a rope and harnesses to assist with the crux of the scramble. When we got to the crux, Allan discovered a wire cable had been placed. It acts as a hand rail and the rope was not needed. Harnesses were optional. After crossing this highway (as Solange put it) with the hand rail we sat down for lunch and watched the guys explore the different options for the crux. After lunch we proceeded to the summit for many pictures. After we took the scree slopes down. For those who are not familiar with this descent route, you take a couple of steps down in the scree and soon are being carried down by the sliding rocks. Every step you take is incredibly soft.
Once we returned to our cars, it was time to go. Allan and Darrell were driving home that night. We left all looking forward to our next climbing adventure.
