by: Kevin Esler
Date: January 21-22, 2012
Attendees: Jeff Dmytrowich, Howard Hemingson, Kevin Esler
Ice climbing is sometimes considered a dangerous sport. One of the biggest causes of danger in the sport is lack of knowledge and experience. As the three of us are finally at the age where we are slowly admitting that we are not immortal we decided to get some more experience and signed up for the Yamnuska Advanced Ice Systems Course.
The first day we met at the Yamnuska office, sorted out gear, checked weather conditions, discussed location, reviewed the avalanche report, and of course signed the customary waiver form. With all the formalities out of the way we headed out to “The Junkyard” which is located right in Canmore near the Spray Lakes Hydro Station. Our guide Nick Sharpe set a couple fixed lines so that we could demonstrate our skills and get some quick feedback on technique. After that was completed we did a set of simulated lead climbing with the protection of top rope still in place. We reviewed proper technique for setting ice screws, building anchors, rope management, and site hazard assessment. After a couple of climbs we moved to the south end of the wall and did some real lead climbing. This included setting our own “pro” on the way, and building an anchor at a belay station to set up for a multi pitch climb. After getting past a little sketchy ledge we made it up to the top and set up a tree anchor and rappelled down.
The second day took us out to Johnston Canyon. After about a 35 minute walk to get to the upper falls we quickly set up ropes and led up the first small pitch to set up for the main climb. We had two rope teams between the five participants. It was interesting how vastly different the ice conditions were between the two routes that were only separated by about 3m. After the lead climbers reached the top they set anchors and were belayed down and we set up on a more vertical section that was about 10m tall. I was able to take a video of one of that climb to help everyone get an idea of what it was like from a climber’s view. Later we practiced making V-threads and had a discussion about the rope management and protection systems.
While we were at Johnston Canyon there was a story being done about a climber that had used what he thought was an old V-thread to rappel from and fell 60ft when it failed. They later found that it wasn’t actually a V-thread but was an old piece of cording that was frozen into the ice. He was returning after surgeries and several years of recovery. It was a very good reminder of the value of making good and conservative choices when the consequences are so severe. It was surprising how many people were standing near or under overhanging ice that could have fallen at any time and how they seemed surprised or unconcerned when the hazard was pointed out. It was a great testament to the value of good education and training so that people can remain safe and control the risks and hazards to allow them to continue to enjoy the sport for many years to come.
